Back in the day, if you cared about the environment, you were a hippie or a tree-hugger, and if a product was marketed as being sustainable, it probably was (or at least as sustainable as something new could be). It was all about values, man. Fast-forward to 2023 and sustainability isn't just the new cool, it's the new norm. Everyone and their mother is suddenly claiming to be eco-friendly, and it's hard to know who's legit and who's just greenwashing to cash in on the trend. You've got brands burning unsold stock, cranking out a million products a day, and still calling themselves✨🌱sustainable🌱✨.

How can you tell the difference between a real eco-warrior and a faker? Well, it’s kind of our job to know who’s doing what in the world of sustainability and ethics so here are some clues: if the product is covered in pictures of cute animals or rainforests, comes in a pretty green bottle, and has a little picture of a leaf somewhere in the product description, it's probably a greenwash. If the company CEO drives a Hummer and owns a private jet, but still wants you to believe they're saving the planet, well, that's just plain old bullshit.

Aside from using a handy ethical search engine dedicated to showing you real sustainability data (oh hey, that’s what we do!), we’ve got the deets on what you should be looking out for, so you’re not having the synthetic wool pulled over your eyes.

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Q: How can you tell LJ wrote a blog?

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A:When there’s a needless definition section ofc!

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Knowing WTF greenwashing is would probs help you understand this article a bit better, so let’s get to defining!

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Greenwashing

def.

misleading or deceptive publicity disseminated by an organisation so as to present an environmentally responsible public image.

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Basically, greenwashing is the act of making companies look more sustainable than they actually are. It's like putting a wet paper towel on a broken bone a la primary school nurses, it may cover up the problem, but it's not actually fixing anything, just confusing and wet. We all know how frustrating it is to be misled by a brand's claims of sustainability.

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In recent years, as sustainability has become not only increasingly trendy but increasingly necessary, brands have been eager to jump on the electric bandwagon. Becoming truly sustainable takes time and resources, and some companies would rather take shortcuts than put in the effort. They resort to using marketing tactics to make their products seem more eco-friendly than they actually are.

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Here's the thing: consumers are catching on. We want to support brands that actually care about the environment and are making real efforts to reduce their impact. In a landscape where everything is painted a very aesthetic, eco-alluding sage green, that can be a hell of a task.

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This sneaky marketing tactic can have serious consequences on the environment and the people behind fashion's supply chains. While some perpetrators have been caught red-handed, others are still getting away with it. Take Zara, for example - they've made promises about switching to 100% renewable energy, but haven't shared any reports to prove it. Meanwhile, H&M and Decathlon got in trouble for using terms like "Ecodesign" and "Conscious" without any real substance or reports to back them up.

The fashion industry is responsible for as much as 10% of global carbon dioxide emissions, and a whopping 20% of global wastewater. Yikes - that's a lot of carbon footprint for some cute clothes. As Uncle Ben says, with great power comes great responsibility and in the world of fashion, that power is marketing.

According to Michelle Gabriel, director of Glasgow Caledonian New York College's Masters of Science Sustainable Fashion program, "It is a market where the products we make bring zero utility, so every bit of value embedded in a product...is entirely derived from perception, almost exclusively." Translation: marketing is everything in fashion, even more than in other industries. So, if sustainability is the new hotness among consumers, it's only natural for fashion companies to jump on the bandwagon and pivot marketing strategies to appeal. Our girl Michelle says that "Sustainability is one of the most significant ways that any company, any product, any business can add value to a product in the fashion marketplace...Brand and status and exclusivity is one of the most significant ways, but on those tails is sustainability." In other words, sustainability is not just a buzzword, it's also a major tool for brands to create value in the marketplace.

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All of this makes shopping for ethical clothing can feel like a game of Whac-A-Mole you can never win. It's like, you finally find a brand that seems legit, but then you start questioning if their "sustainable" production process is really just some greenwashing BS. You shouldn't need a PhD in environmental science to buy a silly little T-shirt. On top of all that, the economy is getting tougher and prices are going up, making it even harder to justify spending extra on ethical fashion. It's like we're stuck between a rock and a hard place, but the planet is the rock and our wallets are the hard place.

As consumers increasingly demand sustainable fashion, fast-fashion brands are pivoting their marketing to appeal to these values. However, this often results in greenwashing, with companies making claims of eco-friendliness without actually changing their production practices. Even Boohoo and Fashion Nova, both known for their high-volume, low-cost production, have been caught up in this trend.  Despite the prevalence of greenwashing, the popularity of fast fashion remains high. In fact, Shein became one of the world's biggest retailers in 2022. It seems that there is still a tension between consumers' values and their actions, which can be attributed to cultural factors as well. "It's difficult because it's also culture, right?" says Fashinnovation Founder Jordana Guimarães, noting that the desire to chase the shiny and new while "keeping up with the Jones" has been around since after World War II.

So how can we avoid greenwashing? Here’s a couple of things to look out for on your next wavy garm shopping spree:

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1. Don't get bamboozled by fancy jargon

Just because a business slaps some "sustainable" or "eco" label on their products doesn't mean they're actually doing anything good for the planet. As sustainability expert Soong says, "these terms are not controlled, so anyone can use them." It's like a free-for-all in the land of buzzwords. Keep an eye out for bona fide stamps of approval from legit organisations like B Corporation, or legit-sounding certifications like Fair Trade or Cradle to Grave. Don't worry, there are plenty of these eco-friendly sheriffs in town, making it easy to separate the green sheep from the green-washers.

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2. Do your research (or hire a private investigator)

Let's face it, you can't trust everyone. So if a brand claims to be eco-friendly, it's important to dig a little deeper. "Do your research and look for authenticity," advises eco-expert Soong. If a brand suddenly goes plant-based, but used to sell meat or dairy, that's a red flag. It's like a wolf in sheep's clothing, or a Kardashian without makeup. If you're not sure about a brand's eco credentials, don't be afraid to interrogate them like a detective. Ask questions, demand answers, use a handy ethical search engine that provides real data alongside consumer ethicality and sustainability sentiment (one like Really Good Culture), or if necessary, hire a private investigator to really get to the bottom of things. Okay, maybe skip the last part, but you get the idea.

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3. Use your noggin

It's time to put on your thinking cap and use some good ol' common sense. "Do you honestly believe that shipping bottled water from Fiji could be eco-friendly?" Soong questions. Do you really think that a 'super sustainable' fashion brand would choose to be stocked by a platform that is known for unethical fast fashion practices? Don't be a numpty - trust your instincts. And you can always check on your instincts by throwing a company name into the handy little search bar at the top of this webpage. Sorry for the shameless plugs.

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4. Don't trust the hype, trust the proof

Environmental claims without third-party verification are about as reliable as a DIY parachute. Some brands throw around buzzwords like 'sustainably made' or 'all-natural' like they're going out of style, without any real standards or oversight. Look for third-party verification on the label or website. Just like you wouldn't trust your weird uncle's homemade vaccine that he calls his ‘special sauce’, you shouldn't trust a brand's environmental claims without independent testing. And don't forget to check for comprehensive certifications that take into account everything from toxic substances to social responsibility. These kind of certifications are handily housed right here on this very site.

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5. Bite the bullet & make the investment

To shop with brands that doesn't greenwash, you may need to invest a little more, as "If a product is cheap, it's probably because it includes an element that's been shipped halfway around the world," shares Rob Abrahams, co-founder of COAT Paint. I know that’s tough right now, but if you’re not in a position to invest in some life-long possessions, you can always have a scroll on the trusty Vinted and find good quality items for a more reasonable price. Plus it will fuel your individuality complex and let you gate-keep your outfits by hitting the fashion vultures with ‘oh it’s actually vintage, sorry’. As Rob explains, "That massive carbon footprint of transit isn't acceptable anymore. We have to understand that buying sustainable products and taking the sustainable approach is unfortunately still more expensive."

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