Leather: the fashion must-have that simply never dies.

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Every season, fashion bloggers and forecasters re-declare their obsession with the chic yet edgy sophistication of a leather look. It’s giving: *Leather? For Autumn? Groundbreaking* energy. 

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There’s a reason that leather is paraded on the catwalks and street-style guides every damn season; its fucking stylish. The problem is - or, more accurately used to be - that there were only two options when it came to leather manufacturing: either you wear the skin of a helpless animal (yikes), or you don petroleum-based “pleather” that, as with all fossil fuel by-products, will invariably contribute to global atmospheric warming and environmental degradation. All of this doesn’t really seem worth it for a super cute, yet uncomfortable and squeaky pair of leather trousers, does it?

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Today all of this has changed. 

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What is cactus leather?

Designed by Desserto, cactus leather is a bio-based material that is the latest innovation in sustainable fashion. This vegan leather is made from the leaves of the nopal cactus (also known as the prickly pear!); a plant native to Mexico that can exist in abundance without needing any water. In 2019, the Mexican fashionistas and innovators Adrian Lopez Velarde and Marte Cazarez debuted the cactus leather (or Cleather, as I have been affectionately calling it) at Milan’s leather fair. The shock waves were felt throughout the fashion community, and vegan leather enthusiasts rejoiced.

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The inspiration for Cleather (this is not an official term, so don’t come at me), was borne out of the shock and despair that the two innovators felt when they observed the results of the plastic pollution crisis. They intended to create an organic and, most importantly, biodegradable material that is versatile enough to replace the over-use of plastic in core industries such as fashion, furniture and car manufacturing. 

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“The positive impact on the environment that our cactus leather can have if incorporated into major production lines of different industries may result in a 32-42% reduction in plastic waste…and about 20% savings in water consumption” - the founders stated. 

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How is cactus leather made?

Cactus leather manufacturing starts with harvesting the mature pads (cactus leaves) of the nopal cactus. This happens twice a year so that the cactus isn’t detrimentally harmed, and can continue to grow unobstructed for years and decades to come. The pads are then cleaned, smashed into smaller pieces and left outside to dry in the sun for at least three days. Already you can see that this is a super eco process; no artificial heating lamps here, just the pure power of the sun, baby (“Alexa play Solar Power by Lorde”)! After the smashed mulch has dried, which can take up to five days depending on the humidity levels, fibres are extracted and taken to a laboratory. Here they are mixed with varying dyes and non-toxic chemicals to form a liquid bio-resin. I’m not going to pretend to understand the chemistry here, but trust me, it works! This resin is subsequently poured on top of a carrier material to form cactus leather. The carrier material chosen depends entirely on the future application of the textile, but can include recycled cotton, polyester or a mixture of the two. Et voila, cleather is born. 

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What can cactus leather be used for?

Anything! Ok, maybe not anything. But owing to its unique properties, it’s primed to have a bright future in a range of industries. Let’s get into it.

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Cactus leather is highly durable and resistant to water, abrasion, rubbing, and tearing. Thus, consumers and manufacturers need not fear that, owing to its biodegradable nature, it is inherently an inferior or less stable material. Quite the opposite, its durability makes it a perfect textile for fashion, furniture, and car interiors. Mercedes Benz, for example, has incorporated this material into its new range of electric cars! 

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Likewise, cactus leather is inherently more breathable than traditional forms of leather. As such, it is a perfect alternative for fashion brands looking to create comfortable, chic and eco-friendly items. It’s no surprise, therefore, that slow fashion brands have been positively sparring with each other to get their hands on it! French label Thalie has used it to create handbags; Mexican brands SENTIENT and Carmona Collection have used it to craft vegan bags and shoes, and London based vegan handbag brand LUXTRA has pioneered its uses in the UK. Even Pinterest-girlie fave brand Ganni has got in on the action, creating a new vegan bag out of orange and cacti waste from the beauty and food industries! I think it's safe to say that fashion x cacti leather is a collab that will only continue to expand, and I'm so here for it. 

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Eco-friendly material is the future of fashion; cactus leather is a next-gen fabric that is here to stay. Get involved in the movement, and look hot af whilst doing it. Wearing your plants never looked so good. 

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